Treatment guide for joinery products.

  1. If the product we have sold you comes with treatment instructions inside the wrapping, these instructions will overide the following if different.
  2. Always read and follow the treatment instructions on the tin.
  3. The main objective when using treatment is to seal the product. To seal means to completely cover the entire product with something that doesn't let any moisture in or out.
  4. Always use a stain or paint. A stain is not a wood dye; dyes don't protect or seal, they are just a colour.
  5. If using a paint, always use a primer, undercoat and topcoat. Primers and undercoats do not seal the door. It is the top coat that seals the product.
  6. Do not use waxes, dyes, oils to treat. They only seal the door temporarily and dyes can actually damage engineered doors.
  7. Application of treatment should be done out of the rain.
  8. Use methylated spirits to remove grease and debris from the product before applying treatment. Don't use white spirit as it takes longer to evaporate and doesn't lift the debris as well as meths.
  9. Use lint free clothes to apply the methylated spirits. Lint free clothes do not leave debris behind.
  10. Always stir the tin of treatment all the way to the bottom to ensure a good mix; shaking is not good enough.
  11. Before the first coat of any treatment is applied, you must rub down the product to make sure there is no dirt or grease. Treatments will not adhere properly if there are contaminates on the products surface. Contaminates will also colour differently from the product.
  12. Use a fully synthetic brush on water based treatments as hogs hair will clog.
  13. If you are to clean your brushes use our special brush cleaner as white spirit is not nearly as good.
  14. It is best to purchase all your treatment at once as colours may vary. We have never heard of colours varying from tin to tin and manufacturers do not mark the treatment up with batch number like wallpaper. We recommend buying all treatment at once just in case it does vary although it shouldn't.
  15. If there are any gaps in the product that are not supposed to be there you must fill them with a suitable filler to stop water getting in.
  16. All our treatments are non-returnable. We sell very expensive doors and we do not want them ruined by applying treatment that has been returned to us previously. Once treatment leaves our shop door, that is it, we will not accept it back.


  1. Please check to see if you have an engineered door.
  2. Immediately after the door has been fitted you must unfit and remove all the ironmongery. Then you must treat the door fully, i.e.., treat behind all the hinge cut outs and inside of the mortices. The manufacturers warrantee will be invalid if you don't do this.
  3. The same treatment must be used all over the door.
  4. One step of the guarantee is to use the correct finishing product, in most circumstances this is oil (solvent) based treatment. Please check the documentation that comes in the doors packaging, to make sure you are using the correct type of product. If no documentation is present in the packaging, please contact us, so we can advise you.
  5. In the case of an external door we recommend that you seal the faces of the door before fitting. This way, if it rains you will have a partial protection. Do not treat the edges as this will hinder fitting.
  6. Always use 3 hinges on a door. Most of the time two hinges are sufficient to carry the weight but the manufacturers warranty will mostly insist on having three. The middle hinge also helps keep the hinged style in line.


It is a common belief in the building trade that a coat of primer on a window will suffice. This is untrue. As soon as a window is fitted it must be fully treated and sealed with primer, undercoat and topcoat. We have had several instances where we have sold softwood casement windows that have not been treated correctly and the casements have swollen so they cannot be opened.

Rubbing down in between coats

  1. It is best to use sand paper as you can use it with a blocks and it breaks up. Try to avoid using wire wool as if have leave a lot of dust. If the wool is old and dirty if can force dirt into the product which is hard to get out.
  2. After rubbing down with sandpaper use a clean brush to brush away any dust and debris.
  3. Using a lint free cloth wipe the product down with methylated spirit and then you are ready for the next coat.

Reason For Treating

  1. To stop the ingress or loss of moisture which will help prevent rot and warping. Warping mainly caused by the product losing or gaining moisture on one side more than the other. This happens to untreated doors in homes that have been freshly plastered, i.e.., high humidity levels. Doors that are between rooms of high temperature differences, e.g.., between a bathroom and hall way, lounge and hallway. Doors must be sealed to help prevent this.
  2. To stop dirt getting in.

Manufacturers warrantee will be invalid if:-

  1. Door not entirely treated, i.e.., no treatment on top or bottom edges; no treatment in mortices or behind hinges or behind levers.
  2. Cutting the door down in size by taking more than 6mm from each edge. Always check the manufactures guidance if you need to take more off.
  3. Incorrect treatment used or not enough coats applied.
  4. Rebating doors together may invalidate the warrantee. We always presume that it will as rebating takes 12mm from one edge.
  5. If you used external treatment, internally or vice versa.
  6. Different product treatments applied to opposing faces.


External joinery items including doors and windows will have to be retreated at regular intervals. The length of time between treatment will vary depending on what material it is made from and which way the door is facing. South and West elevations of a building get the most adverse weather conditions so will treating more frequently. The less sun and rain the joinery gets the less it will need treating. Treatment adheres to softwood a lot better than oak thus oak will need treating more frequently. If any gaps appear in joints or beads they will need filling to prevent water getting in. Some external door manufacturers recommend building a canopy to give further protection.

Treatment Products By Ron Currie

As we specialise in joinery and timber products we have limited treatments. In terms of gloss, we don't stock it as this is a huge area of treatment and there are so many other companies out there who specialise in it.  We stock stains by two brands called 'Sadolin' and 'Sikkens'. Both are very good well known brands.

External joinery: Sadolin uses a 2 product system. Apply Sadolin 'Classic' as an undercoat and then apply Sadolin 'Extra' as a topcoat. Sikkens also uses a two product system. Apply Sikkens 'Novatech' as a base coat and then apply Sikkens 'Novatop' as a top coat. These products are all solvent based products. Do not use yacht or clear varnish; it tends to crack. See external treatment page. Should you wish to paint your hardwood window,  you will need to use specialist primers (with the exception of Douglas Fir). We recommend and stock Zinsser primers for this purpose.

Internal joinery: Use ‘Sadolin, Polyurethane quick drying varnish,’ unless otherwise stated on the door manufacturer's treatment instructions. Use ‘Sikkens, Cetol TS Interior,’ if an oil based treatment is required. See internal treatment page.

Inspecting goods before unwrapping.

Doors should be fully inspected before unpackaging and hanging. We always recommend that you personally check the doors rather than leave it to your fitter, as you will have a more critical eye. You need to check for: Splits, cracks, poor finish, marks, water marks, mould, scratches on glass, movement in panels or glass and finally to check the door for twist and warp. We recommend this be done before organising fitting as you may be charged for the joiner turning up and being unable to fit the door due to damage. Although every care is taken here to minimise damaged items leaving the store, some faults cannot be seen until the door is unpackaged. If a fault is found you must not cut, chop, treat or hang the door as this denotes acceptance of the faulty door and invalidates any warranty. Faults must be reported within 3 days of receiving the door. If the fault is discovered after this period it is up to our own discretion whether or not we accept the door back.


Occasionally, even if these instructions are carried out to the full, doors can develop problems. If you discover a problem with the door and you are confident that all the instructions have been fully followed, you will need to contact us first of all. Please use our claim form by clicking here. It is essential to have some pictures of the faulty area to email us as this will expedite the process. We will also need your receipt for the original purchase. Once we have the information needed to process the claim we will contact the supplier. At this point it is up to the supplier to either perform a site visit or not. Some suppliers will perform site visits and some will not. Suppliers tend to take the claims on a case by case basis and so the process is different for every door. We will take every measure possible to ensure your claim goes as smoothly as possible, however, this process can be quite lengthy. The door comes with a manufacturers guarantee. This guarantee is given by our supplier and it is strictly their decision as to whether to replace a faulty door or not. The guarantee of the door only covers the replacement of the faulty door. The suppliers will not refund fitting, treating or delivery costs. Should the supplier want the door returning to them it is your responsibility to get the door back to us. We will then forward it onto the supplier. When we are satisfied and an agreement has been reached we will dispatch a replacement door free of charge.